Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide

Short Description
Many of these adjustments require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M exposure modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes often lock out some adjustments. I leave most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I never use the cute little preset icon modes because I prefer to set anything special myself.

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ISO: I use 200. If the light gets dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I increase the ISO to 400, 800 or 1,600. I never bother with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D70 looks fine at ISO 1,600 if you need it. I’d much rather have a slightly grainy but sharp image than a less grainy but blurry one. Unlike film, the D70 looks great at high ISOs, so I use them anytime I need them.
I would love to use ISO AUTO, but usually don’t because it also remains active in Manual exposure mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the manual exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual exposure mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Balance: I use AUTO -3 and use an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I prefer warmer (oranger) images. See more details about how to set these on my D70 Back Panel Controls page and details on why you care at my general White Balance page.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. This is called NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (3,008 x 2,000) image size.
I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO difference! Seriously, if you saw these prints you wouldn’t be able to sort them out either. I can see only the slightest differences on my monitor enlarged to 100%, which is similar to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has 100% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t worry: if you need space, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The only way to tell is by looking at the file size.
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